As the industry gathered in London for In-Cosmetics Global, 2017 this week, all eyes were on the Next Big Thing. From clean cosmetics to athleisure beauty, bespoke products to masks, we’ve brought you the hottest trends as they happen, and now we have our eyes on the future...
1) The good, the bad – but not the ugly
Yep, we’re talking microbiomes people. A trend spearheaded by AO Biome and its Mother Dirt line that started to gain real traction at the close of last year, this one looks to grow and grow. Microbiome was the buzzword of the show, with Givaudan and BASF both showing innovative new ingredients designed to preserve the delicate balance of bugs that live on our skin – a balance that can be easily disrupted by our obsession with hygiene.
2) Approach with caution
And that propensity to over-cleanse both our bodies and our environment leads us neatly on to our next trend – products designed for ultra-sensitive skin. Mibelle’s signature product this year was SensAmone P5, a biomimetic peptide based on a sea anemone protein that claims to block the TRPV1 pain receptor, leading to a reduction in skin sensitivity.
3) Renew and refine
FYI, we’re not using the words ‘anti-aging’ or ‘slimming’ anymore. It’s all about the three R’s nowadays: renew, rejuvenate and refine - for the category is focusing on ‘invigorating’ and ‘empowering’ instead. It’s a language that features heavily in BASF’s promotional material, while over at Lipotec, ‘refuel’ was the mot du jour.
4) Do it all
As Givaudan’s Pauline Martin told us, it’s all about ‘multi-functional products, multi-functional ingredients that give multi-functional benefits’. Indeed, multi-functional was a word we heard a LOT at the show – aimed squarely at the time poor. From Ashland’s latest strengthening hair care ingredient that can be used in shampoo, negating the need for a separate conditioning treatment, to the alternative preservation systems being spearheaded by Inolex.
5) Sensory play
If I had a dollar for every time I heard the word ‘fresh’ throughout the show, I’d be a rich woman by now. Yes, it’s all about light-as-a-feather textures. At Solvay, sensorial was key while BASF’s Fresh Day Care Flakes promise to promote a ‘light and fresh feeling’. Lipotec/Lubrizol have developed a literal cold cream; Cold Firming Body Night Cream maintains spreadability at temperatures of up to -20C and can be kept in the freezer for a cooling effect.
6) Bi-product beauty
Sustainability continues to be high on the agenda for suppliers and this year was all about the bi-product. From BASF’s Collalift 18, which is made from African mahogany bark, to Lipotec’s actiscrub range, a series of physical exfoliants that provide an alternative to the much-maligned microbeads, beauty is catching on to the bounty that is the bi-product.