Cold-pressed. As a resident in east London, aka peak hipster territory, it’s a word I see everywhere. Juice, coffee – if it’s not cold pressed, is it even a drink? And like every good trend born in the food industry, it’s now travelled to our bathroom shelves to boot.
Yes cold-pressed beauty is now a ‘thing’. Liha Beauty, Ambre Botanicals, Luk, Odylique, Odacite and Kat Burki are all using variations on the term while Fytt beauty’s range is indistinguishable from the smoothie it was inspired by. No wonder it has to actually point out on its website that the product is not edible
So what is cold-pressed beauty – and more importantly – why? Well, as Kat Burki’s marketing material informs us ‘cold-processing technology ensures all ingredients retain maximal effectiveness’.
AO’s spiel goes that the emulsification process used by the cold-press camp retains the integrity of the ingredient –cold-pressed cosmetics are said to be more potent as a result. As a general rule, cold-pressed formulas also contain less ‘fillers’ (water) than conventional products meaning you get more bang for your buck and an ethical glow to boot – low-energy and waterless beauty being the other big trends on the cosmetics horizon.
Yes, for although cold-pressed has been a word bandied about by a few niche beauty brands for a while now, it’s now beginning to hit the mainstream. Clinique launched its Fresh Pressed System last March, using language clearly designed to jump on the juicing momentum. The brand even partnered with Joe & The Juice for the launch, developing a dedicated drink in honor of the product.
Meanwhile, L’Oréal-owned Kiehl’s bought out a Midnight Recovery Botanical Cleansing Oil formulated with cold-pressed evening primrose oil in the same month. Two’s a trend.
And it’s a trend that ties in perfectly to the single ingredient beauty movement spearheaded by the likes of Drunken Elephant and The Ordinary. The theory being, of course, that if you use just one thing, it may as well be best in class. Being plant derived, it’s also vegan friendly and, of course, with all that kale and stuff, it’s right up the street of wellness enthusiasts. In sum, it is so very 2018.
However, like all trends that are basically built on the premise that they are purer, better and ‘more natural’ than anything else, it’s only a matter of time before someone goes one step further – and Pai is keen to point out that cold-pressed oils aren’t quite what they seem – with the definition allowing for temperatures of up to 49C (120F) during processing.
Naturally, Pai has an alternative – its Super Critical CO2 Extraction takes place at 30C (86F) – allowing for ‘impeccably pure’ oil that ‘delivers twice the regenerative sterols and five times more carotenoids than your average rosehip seed oil’. How pure are your cosmetics?